For those of us in the mountains, the challenge is part of the charm. Success here tastes sweeter—especially when it’s a sun-ripened tomato you start from a seed yourself while snow was still piled high on the driveway.
Starting your own seeds is one of the best ways to cheat the calendar. It gives you a jump on our short season and opens a world of varieties you simply can’t find at the local nursery. Let’s dig into how you can turn your high-altitude challenges into a thriving garden this year.
Why the Intermountain West is Different
Before we talk about soil and light, we must respect our geography. The Intermountain West (spanning parts of Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, and Nevada) isn’t just about cold winters. It’s about altitude, aridity, and wild temperature swings.
While official maps may now place many of us in Zone 6 due to warming trends, experienced locals know better. To ensure success, we recommend you still treat your garden like a Zone 5. Why? Because spring here is a rollercoaster. We deal with:
- Intense UV Radiation: High elevation means the sun is stronger, which can scorch tender seedlings.
- Low Humidity: Our dry air sucks moisture right out of seed starting mix.
- Drastic Daily Swings: It might be 70°F during the day and drop to 28°F at night in late May.
Understanding these factors is key to choosing the right seeds and keeping your baby plants alive.
Step 1: Selecting the Right Seeds
Not all seeds are created equally, especially for our region. When flipping through catalogs or scrolling online, you need to look for specific traits that can handle our temperament.
Look for “Days to Maturity”
This is your most critical number. In the Intermountain West, our reliable frost-free growing season is often short, sometimes only 90 to 120 days.
- Tomatoes & Peppers: Look for “early” varieties that mature in 55-70 days. Varieties like Early Girl, Celebrity or La Roma tomatoes are champions here. There are many more to choose from!
- Squash & Melons: Choose bush varieties or those bred for cool nights.
Cold Tolerance
Look for descriptions that mention “cold hardy” or “cool weather tolerant.” Crops like kale, spinach, and peas taste better after a frost, making them perfect for our unpredictable springs and autumns.
Step 2: The Timing Game
Timing is everything. Start too early, and you’ll have giant, leggy monsters taking over your living room before the snow melts. Start too late, and you won’t get a harvest before the first fall freeze.
For our area, the average last frost date is typically around May 10th. However, seasoned locals often wait until the first week of June to plant warm-weather crops outside, just to be safe.
Your Seed Starting Calendar:
- February (Late): Onions, leeks, and celery. These are slow growers and need a head start.
- March (Mid): Peppers and eggplant. They need warmth and time to grow before transplanting.
- March (Late): Tomatoes. Yes, wait until late March! Tomatoes grow fast. If you start them in February, they will become unmanageable. Brassicas (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower)
- April (Early to Mid): Leafy greens, and herbs.
- May (Early): Cucumbers, squash, and melons (if starting indoors—these often do better direct-sown, but starting indoors buys you 2-3 weeks).
Step 3: The Setup
You don’t need a professional greenhouse, but a sunny windowsill usually isn’t enough in our region. The winter days are short, and the light is often too weak indoors to prevent seedlings from getting “leggy” (tall and weak).
Essential Gear:
- Grow Lights: Simple shop lights with LED bulbs work wonders. Keep the lights just 2-3 inches above the seedlings to encourage stocky, strong growth.
- Heat Mats: Peppers and tomatoes love warm feet. A heat mat speeds up germination significantly.
- Humidity Domes: Because our air is so dry, cover your seed trays with plastic domes or plastic wrap until the seeds sprout to keep moisture in.
Step 4: The Hardening Off Process
This is where many Intermountain gardeners stumble. You cannot take a plant that has lived in a 70°F house under gentle lights and shove it directly into the harsh high-altitude sun and wind. It will die of shock.
Hardening off is the process of gradually acclimating your plants to the outdoors. Because our UV rays are intense and our winds are drying, this step is non-negotiable.
The 7-Day Hardening Off Schedule:
- Day 1-2: Place seedlings in a sheltered, shady spot outdoors for 1-2 hours. Bring them back inside.
- Day 3-4: Give them filtered sunlight or morning sun for 2-3 hours. Protect them from wind.
- Day 5-6: Extend outdoor time to 6-8 hours, introducing them to more direct sun and gentle breezes. Monitor water closely, they will dry out fast!
- Day 7: Leave them out overnight if temperatures are forecasted to stay above 45°F (for warm crops) or 35°F (for cool crops).
Overcoming Obstacles
The False Spring
We often have a beautiful week in April when it hits 65°F. Do not be fooled. Do not plant your tomatoes. Use this time to prepare your beds or plant cold-hardy seeds like radishes and peas but keep the frost-tender plants inside.
The Late Freeze
It happens almost every year: a freezing warning in late May or early June. Be prepared.
- Wall o’ Waters: These water-filled plant protectors are legendary in the Intermountain West. They insulate plants and allow you to plant tomatoes 2-3 weeks earlier than normal.
- Frost Cloth: Keep agricultural fleece or old sheets handy to throw over crops when the weatherman delivers bad news.
Dry Soil
Seedlings have tiny root systems. In our arid climate, the top inch of soil can dry out in hours. Check your transplants daily. Mulch heavily with straw or shredded leaves immediately after planting to lock in moisture.
The Payoff
Gardening here is a test of patience and resilience, but the rewards are incredible. There is nothing quite like the crunch of a carrot pulled from high-altitude soil or the taste of a pepper that ripened against the odds.
Start small, keep an eye on the forecast, and don’t be afraid to experiment. Your garden is waiting.
